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Shampoo Without Formaldehyde Releasers Like DMDM Hydantoin

Guide·Updated

A shampoo without formaldehyde releasers is one whose INCI list contains none of the preservatives that slowly give off formaldehyde in water: DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, quaternium-15, bronopol (2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol), and sodium hydroxymethylglycinate. These names, not the word "formaldehyde," are what you will find on a label, because the releaser is the listed ingredient. Formaldehyde was the American Contact Dermatitis Society's Allergen of the Year for 2015, the US FDA lists the releasers among common cosmetic allergens, and since 2024 EU products must carry a "releases formaldehyde" warning above a low threshold. A contact allergy to formaldehyde is a medical matter: read the full INCI and patch-test with a dermatologist or allergist before relying on any product.

Fast facts

  • A formaldehyde releaser (or donor) is a preservative molecule that carries formaldehyde in its structure and releases small amounts of it over time, which is what keeps microbes out of a water-based product.
  • The US FDA names DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, quaternium-15, bronopol, 5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane, and sodium hydroxymethylglycinate as formaldehyde-releasing allergens in cosmetics.
  • Formaldehyde was named Allergen of the Year for 2015 by the American Contact Dermatitis Society (Pontén and Bruze, Dermatitis 2015).
  • In the EU, quaternium-15 is prohibited: Commission Regulation (EU) 2019/831 moved it from Annex V (allowed preservatives) to Annex II (banned substances).
  • The remaining releasers are still allowed in the EU at set maxima (Annex V): DMDM hydantoin 0.6%, imidazolidinyl urea 0.6%, diazolidinyl urea 0.5%, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate 0.5%, bronopol 0.1%.
  • Commission Regulation (EU) 2022/1181 requires the label warning "releases formaldehyde" when the finished product releases more than 0.001% (10 ppm) formaldehyde, down from 0.05%; it applies to products placed on the EU market from 31 July 2024 and to all products made available from 31 July 2026.
  • Class actions filed in US courts beginning in 2021 alleged that DMDM hydantoin in certain shampoo lines caused hair loss and scalp irritation; these were allegations, and the best-known OGX case was dismissed with prejudice in March 2022.
  • Baresel's INCI contains no formaldehyde releaser; it is preserved with sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate, with citric acid holding the pH.

What a formaldehyde releaser is

Formaldehyde itself is rarely added to shampoo. What formulators use instead is a class of preservatives that are chemically bound forms of formaldehyde: in water, they slowly break down and release it in low concentrations, and that free formaldehyde is what stops bacteria and mold from growing in the bottle. DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, quaternium-15, bronopol, and sodium hydroxymethylglycinate all work this way, though they differ in how much formaldehyde they release and how quickly. They were widely adopted in the 1980s and 1990s as cheap, effective, broad-spectrum options, and DMDM hydantoin in particular became a staple of mass-market shampoos and conditioners.

The catch is that formaldehyde is a well-established contact allergen. The American Contact Dermatitis Society named it Allergen of the Year for 2015, with Pontén and Bruze noting that exposure is widespread and that the allergy is easy to miss in an individual patient, precisely because the source is hidden behind a different ingredient name. Someone sensitized to formaldehyde can react to a releaser-preserved product without ever seeing "formaldehyde" on the label, which is why patient guidance from DermNet and the FDA is to learn the releaser names and avoid them as a group.

The DMDM hydantoin lawsuits, stated carefully

Beginning in 2021, consumers in the United States filed proposed class actions against the makers of several shampoo and conditioner lines, alleging that DMDM hydantoin in those products caused hair loss, scalp irritation, and allergic reactions, and that the companies had failed to warn. The most widely reported case, Whipple v. Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc., concerned the OGX line and was filed in June 2021; it was dismissed with prejudice on 22 March 2022, and the dismissal order gave no reasons and created no public claims process. Related federal cases against the same defendant were reported as consolidated in New Jersey and resolved by confidential settlement in the same month. Separate litigation over TRESemmé products has been reported as ongoing.

Two things are worth keeping straight. First, these complaints are allegations; no court has found that DMDM hydantoin causes hair loss, and a dismissal or a confidential settlement establishes nothing either way. Second, the allergy question is separate from the hair-loss question. Formaldehyde contact allergy is documented in the dermatology literature independently of any lawsuit, and that, not the litigation, is the reason a person with a positive patch test is told to avoid releasers. The lawsuits mainly changed the market: several brands reformulated, and "DMDM hydantoin-free" became a label claim, which makes reading the INCI more important, not less, since a reformulated product may have swapped one releaser for another.

How to spot formaldehyde releasers on a label

Preservatives appear near the end of an INCI list, so read all the way down. The table lists the names to look for, their EU status, and what each is. In the EU, a product whose total formaldehyde release exceeds 0.001% (10 ppm) must now carry the words "releases formaldehyde" on the label under Commission Regulation (EU) 2022/1181; the SCCS had concluded the old 0.05% threshold did not protect people already sensitized. That warning is helpful where it applies, but it is not universal: it does not exist on US labels, and a product just under the threshold carries no warning while still containing the releaser. The ingredient name remains the reliable signal.

Formaldehyde-releasing preservatives and how to recognize them

INCI name on the labelWhat it isEU status (Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009)
DMDM Hydantoin1,3-dimethylol-5,5-dimethylhydantoin; the most common releaser in shampooAllowed, max 0.6% (Annex V entry 33)
Imidazolidinyl UreaUrea-based releaser, often paired with parabensAllowed, max 0.6% (Annex V entry 27)
Diazolidinyl UreaUrea-based releaser, a stronger donor than imidazolidinyl ureaAllowed, max 0.5% (Annex V entry 46)
Quaternium-15Cis-CTAC; historically the main cosmetic releaser allergen in the USProhibited: moved to Annex II by Regulation (EU) 2019/831
2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1,3-Diol (Bronopol)Releaser that can also form nitrosamines with certain aminesAllowed, max 0.1% (Annex V entry 21)
Sodium HydroxymethylglycinateGlycine-derived releaser, sometimes marketed as "naturally derived"Allowed, max 0.5% (Annex V entry 51)
5-Bromo-5-Nitro-1,3-Dioxane (Bronidox)Releaser used mainly in rinse-off productsAllowed in rinse-off products only (Annex V)

What brands use instead, and what Baresel uses

Shampoos that leave the releasers out generally preserve with one of three systems: organic-acid salts (sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate, which need a mildly acidic pH to work), phenoxyethanol-based blends (often with ethylhexylglycerin), or parabens. Some also lean on isothiazolinones (MI/MCI), which solve the formaldehyde problem by introducing a different, well-documented allergen, so a label that says "formaldehyde-free" still needs reading. Baresel is one example of the organic-acid approach: its published INCI is Aqua/Water, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Glycerin, Panthenol, Sodium Chloride, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Tocopherol, with no formaldehyde releaser and no MI/MCI. This formula is confirmed with the manufacturer; the label on the bottle matches it, and you hear first if anything ever changes. Baresel is a cosmetic, not a treatment; if formaldehyde is on your patch-test results, check this or any list against them with your dermatologist or allergist before use.

Frequently asked

Which shampoo ingredients release formaldehyde?

The formaldehyde-releasing preservatives the US FDA lists are DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, quaternium-15, bronopol (2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol), 5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane, and sodium hydroxymethylglycinate. They appear under those names, not as "formaldehyde," near the end of the INCI list.

Is DMDM hydantoin banned?

No. In the EU it is permitted at up to 0.6% (Annex V of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009), and products releasing more than 0.001% formaldehyde must be labeled "releases formaldehyde" under Regulation (EU) 2022/1181. In the US it is permitted and there is no equivalent warning. Quaternium-15 is the releaser that has been prohibited in the EU, under Regulation (EU) 2019/831.

Did the DMDM hydantoin lawsuits prove that it causes hair loss?

No. The suits filed from 2021 alleged hair loss and scalp irritation; the widely reported OGX case was dismissed with prejudice in March 2022 without a stated reason, related cases were reported settled confidentially, and no court has ruled on causation. Contact allergy to formaldehyde is a separate, documented matter that does not depend on the litigation.

What does a "releases formaldehyde" label mean?

Since 31 July 2024, cosmetics placed on the EU market must carry that phrase when the finished product releases more than 0.001% (10 ppm) formaldehyde; from 31 July 2026 it applies to all products made available. It flags a releaser above the threshold, but a product just under it can still contain one, so the ingredient name is the more reliable check.

What preservative does a releaser-free shampoo use?

Usually sodium benzoate with potassium sorbate at a mildly acidic pH, a phenoxyethanol blend, or parabens; some use MI/MCI, which is a different known allergen. Baresel uses sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate with citric acid. Each of these is still an ingredient, so check the full list against your own results.

Can a formaldehyde-free shampoo cure my scalp reaction?

No. A shampoo is a cosmetic; leaving formaldehyde releasers out helps you avoid a known trigger but does not diagnose, treat, or cure contact dermatitis. Diagnosis by patch testing and any treatment belong with a dermatologist or allergist.